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Those who remember the film Miracle on 34th Street will be familiar with the last name synonymous in North America with Santa

Those who remember the film Miracle on 34th Street will be familiar with the last name, synonymous in North America with Santa Claus, and thought to derive from the German for Christ Child, Christkindl, which turned into “Kris Kringle” in the New World.The “Santa Claus House” is still owned by the Miller family, and is one of Alaska’s commercial successes. Presumably deciding that commerce conquers superstition, rather than taking their mistletoe and tinsel down after Twelfth Night, the mayor’s office keeps Christmas decorations up all year round. Street lamps – a necessity since, on the shortest day, there are just three hours and 42 minutes of daylight – on North Pole’s Main Street are decorated with candy-cane motifs, and buildings are painted in Christmas colours. Roads bear names such as Santa Claus Lane, Snowman Lane, Saint Nicholas Drive and Kris Kringle Drive. Are you building a new house?” Before you could say “Donner and Blitzen”, the shop was named “Santa Claus House”.North Pole has flourished, with much effort expended to develop it as the place “Where the spirit of Christmas lives year round”. One day, while Con was erecting a wall for the new store, a boy recognised him and said: “Hello, Santa Claus. (In the US, Santa Claus is said to live at the North Pole, as opposed to being an inhabitant of Lapland.) The toy-makers’ responses were as icy as the local winter weather, which can plummet to minus 50C.

But at Christmas in 1949, Con Miller (a merchant and fur- buyer) donned an old red outfit and played Santa Claus for children in the villages surrounding Fairbanks.By 1952, the Millers had decided to build a trading-post in the area newly named “North Pole”. However, go to Fairbanks, Alaska and take the Richardson Highway for 15 miles, and you’ll come to the Tanana Valley “city” – with a population of around 1,700, we’re not talking metropolis here – of North Pole.
In 1944, this area, 140 miles south of the Arctic Circle, was homesteaded by one Bon Davis; a development company then bought the homestead and subdivided it. When it was later named North Pole, the name was chosen to attract the toy industry to manufacture articles that they could legally advertise as being “Made in North Pole”. You’ll certainly see the dunes and beaches on TV and in newspapers… and you might just decide they’re worth a visit.Tony Newton flew from Gatwick to Charlotte, North Carolina, with US Airways (0800 783 5556; ). The alternative gateway for the Outer Banks is Washington DC, served from Heathrow by British Airways, United and Virgin Atlantic, and from Manchester by BMI.

If you thought that to reach the North Pole, you travel to the Arctic Circle and head north, you’d be right. You’ll probably see footage of my instructor Doug piloting the replica of the Wright Flyer. But, says Big Ed, “it would just be too much trouble,” and that about sums up the relaxed nature of this man and his creation.North Carolina, and specifically the Outer Banks will be well and truly in the media spotlight when the flight centenary celebrations kick off. My order of a cheeseburger was nixed by Big Ed himself, who insisted that I order one of his specials.

A massive plate of barbecued chicken and a side order of devilled eggs duly arrived Between mouthfuls, I quizzed Big Ed about his business. Serving 600 covers a day, the diner is open for breakfast and lunch, but not dinner. Big Ed’s gold Rolex is testament to the goldmine that his home cooking has become over 40 years, and evening opening would surely bring in locals, tourists and their dollars. It seems that there’s so much confusion as to what is meant by “uptown” and “downtown” here that they’ve agreed to disagree and called the bustling bit “Center City” instead), or Raleigh Durham (three hours by car and a good flight to have a heart attack on as the front end often seems full of doctors travelling to and from the pharmaceutical and medical device companies of Research Triangle Park or the medical school).If you find yourself in Raleigh, a trip to Big Ed’s diner is worthwhile. The 214 steps to the top of the Currituck Beach Lighthouse (the only one which isn’t candy-striped) are worth it for the great view.One of the attractions of the Outer Banks is their remoteness. Not remote in the sense of desolate, and there’s a lot of building going on as prices surge.

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May 2012
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